A six-day, point-to-point self-guided trek across Upper Svaneti in northwestern Georgia, linking the village of Etseri to the UNESCO World Heritage village of Ushguli, via Mazeri, Mestia, Lakhiri, Adishi, and Khalde. Expect high mountain passes with views of Mount Ushba and Mount Tetnuldi, a glacier-fed river crossing beneath Mount Shkhara, medieval Svan tower villages, and a dramatic high-pass finish above the Ushguli tower cluster. This is a self-guided trip: you follow the provided route notes and GPS tracks at your own pace, arranging village guesthouses and meals locally as you go.
Overview
A six-day, point-to-point self-guided trek across Upper Svaneti in northwestern Georgia, linking the village of Etseri to the UNESCO World Heritage village of Ushguli, via Mazeri, Mestia, Lakhiri, Adishi, and Khalde. Expect high mountain passes with views of Mount Ushba and Mount Tetnuldi, a glacier-fed river crossing beneath Mount Shkhara, medieval Svan tower villages, and a dramatic high-pass finish above the Ushguli tower cluster.
Highlights
- Cross Guli Pass (2,955m) and Lagem Pass (2,990m), with simultaneous views of both peaks of Mount Ushba
- Walk beneath Mount Tetnuldi (4,858m) and Mount Shkhara (5,193m), Georgia's highest peak
- Overnight in traditional Svan tower-house villages at Mazeri, Mestia, Lakhiri, and Adishi
- Cross the glacier-fed Adishi River beneath Chkhunderi Pass, with the Adishi Glacier in full view
- Finish at Ushguli, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Europe's highest permanently inhabited settlements
6-Day Itinerary
A day-by-day breakdown of the route from Etseri to Ushguli, including daily distance, elevation change, and terrain notes. This is a self-guided trip: follow the route notes and GPS tracks provided after booking.
Distance: 14–15 km | Elevation change: +900 m / −800 m
The trail departs Etseri at 1,500 m and climbs gently through open terrain toward Bak Pass (2,400 m), with Mount Laila visible ahead from the start. Beyond the pass the trail enters a shallow forest, then opens onto alpine meadow with a striking first view of Mount Ushba — one twin peak revealed. The Mazeri ridge offers a 360-degree Caucasus panorama before the pine forest descent into Becho valley at 1,600 m.
Safety note: Trekking poles strongly recommended for the long pine forest descent. Start early to clear the exposed pass before afternoon thunderstorm risk — do not linger on Bak Pass if clouds are building, as there is no natural shelter. Always carry full rain gear. Overnight in a village guesthouse in Mazeri (arranged and paid locally).
Distance: 20 km | Elevation change: +1,355 m / −1,505 m
The most demanding day of the trek. The trail follows the Becho valley with Ushba dominating ahead, passing the ruins of the abandoned village of Guli before a long, sustained climb to Guli Pass at 2,955 m. Here, both North and South peaks of Ushba are visible simultaneously for the first time, with Tetnuldi in the far distance completing a full 360-degree panorama. The descent crosses a short landslide section before reaching the Koruldi Lake café — a welcome food and water stop. A further long descent brings you into Mestia at 1,450 m.
Safety note: Order a packed lunch from your Mazeri guesthouse the evening before — no food available between Mazeri and Koruldi café. Start no later than 7:00–7:30 AM to clear the pass before afternoon storms. Carry 3–4 litres of water. Trekking poles essential — the short landslide section requires careful footwork. Full rain gear and sunscreen mandatory at this elevation. Overnight in a guesthouse in Mestia (arranged and paid locally).
Distance: 11–12 km | Elevation change: +450 m / −200 m
A genuine recovery day after the demanding Guli Pass crossing. The trail climbs gently from Mestia through meadows and forest, with stunning views back over the town and its tower houses. At the high point (around 1,900 m) a small souvenir café serves good coffee and tea — a welcome surprise. This is where Mount Tetnuldi (4,858 m) reveals itself in full for the first time, its glaciated bulk dominating the eastern skyline. The trail then descends gently through traditional Svan tower villages into Lakhiri at 1,700 m.
Safety note: Easiest day of the trek — but maintain good habits. Trekking poles reduce fatigue on tired legs. Carry rain gear and sunscreen; the meadow and high-point sections offer limited shade. Overnight in a village guesthouse in Lakhiri (arranged and paid locally).
Distance: 14–15 km | Elevation change: +700 m / −350 m
A deeply satisfying day combining village walking, dense forest, and a rewarding mountain pass. Tetnuldi greets you from the very first steps and remains dominant throughout. The trail passes through traditional Svan villages before reaching Zhabeshi — the last water source of the day. Beyond Zhabeshi, dense forest climbs all the way to an unnamed pass at 2,450 m, where panoramic views open suddenly and Tetnuldi fills the skyline. The descent brings you to Adishi at 2,100 m — one of the most remote and beautiful villages in all of Svaneti, with iconic medieval tower houses.
Safety note: Order a packed lunch from your Lakhiri guesthouse the evening before. Refill all water at Zhabeshi — there are no sources beyond this point, and the forest climb is long. Trekking poles recommended. Carry full rain gear and sunscreen. Overnight in a village guesthouse in Adishi (arranged and paid locally).
Distance: 12–13 km | Elevation change: +647 m / −700 m
A day of striking contrasts. An almost flat walk from Adishi leads to the Adishi River — the key challenge of the day. After the crossing, dense forest climbs steeply to Chkhunderi Pass at 2,750 m, where one of the finest views on the entire route awaits: the Adishi Glacier sprawling below, and Mount Shkhara (5,193 m — Georgia's highest peak) rising behind it in full, overwhelming glory. The descent from the pass is entirely open highland terrain, dropping gently to the charming village of Khalde at 2,050 m.
Safety note: Cross the Adishi River as early as possible — glacial meltwater rises significantly through the morning. Arrange a horse crossing through your Adishi guesthouse the evening before, as horse owners leave the river by mid-morning. If crossing independently, use trekking poles and choose the widest, shallowest point. Carry full day water from Adishi. Overnight in a village guesthouse in Khalde (arranged and paid locally).
Distance: 13–14 km | Elevation change: +930 m / −840 m
The spectacular way to finish the trek. After descending into the valley and crossing the river — the last water source before Ushguli — the trail enters dense forest on a steep, sustained climb to Lagem Pass at 2,990 m, the second highest point of the entire route. The pass delivers an extraordinary finale: the Ushguli tower cluster directly below, Mount Shkhara closing the horizon, and the entire Enguri valley sweeping away to the west. The descent passes through shallow forest into open terrain all the way to Ushguli at 2,150 m — a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the highest permanently inhabited settlements in Europe.
Safety note: Start early — the steep forest ascent demands respect on tired legs. Refill water at the river crossing without exception. Do not linger on Lagem Pass if weather is building. Trekking poles essential throughout. In poor weather or if energy is low after five demanding days, an easier alternative via paved road through the Enguri valley (15–16 km, low point around 1,750 m) is also available — ask your Khalde guesthouse host about current conditions. Trip ends in Ushguli.
What's Included & Excluded
Cost Includes
- Full self-guided route notes, day-by-day directions, and GPS track files
- Pre-trip planning support and trip briefing from Transcaucasian Trail Tours
- Access to your itinerary and safety notes for all 6 days
Cost Excludes
- MANDATORY — Village guesthouses & meals: approx. 692 GEL (~$265 USD) per person, paid in cash directly to village hosts as you trek. This is required to participate and is not paid on this website.
- OPTIONAL — Logistics package (daily luggage transfer plus transportation to/from Etseri and Ushguli): a flat 812 GEL (~$311 USD) per group of up to 5 people, paid in cash to local drivers. Not charged unless you request it.
- OPTIONAL — Local guide: 308 GEL (~$118 USD) per day per group of up to 5 people, paid in cash to the guide. Choose which of the 6 trekking days you'd like guided; guiding all 6 days totals 1,849 GEL (~$708 USD) per group. Not charged unless you request it.
- Transportation to Etseri and from Ushguli (unless you book the optional logistics package above)
- Travel insurance
- International and domestic flights
- Personal trekking gear and equipment
- Tips and gratuities
Frequently Asked Questions
Booking as a larger group lowers the per-person price for this trek. For example, a solo traveler pays $499, while a group of 5 pays $189 per person. Prices are shown per group size in the Date & Price section above.
Yes — this trek is priced and organized for groups of up to 5 people per booking. If you have a larger group, please contact us before booking so we can arrange multiple bookings for your party.
After you book, email us at [email protected] with your trip dates and let us know which optional add-ons you'd like — the logistics package (luggage transfer and transportation) and/or a local guide, including which of the 6 trekking days you'd like guided. We'll confirm the details with you; these add-ons are paid in cash locally as described in the Cost Excludes section above.
Once your booking is confirmed, we'll email you the full route notes, day-by-day directions, and GPS track files for all 6 days, along with your trip briefing and any other pre-trip planning information you need.
The mandatory village guesthouse costs, and any optional logistics package or local guide you add, are paid in Georgian Lari (GEL) in cash directly to your hosts, driver, or guide during the trek — not on this website.